Death Valley

We drove in to Furnace Creek visitor center to get a map and show them our pass for the park fee. It turns out that this past week was free national park week so we wouldn’t have had to pay anyway. It was interesting driving in. At first look everything looks very barren (which I guess it is) but the more time we spent driving around the more we appreciated it and the prettier it seemed. The first lookout was over some very interestingly eroded hills. We got there just before a tour bus so we had a quick look, took some pictures, and then left as it was being swarmed.



We chose a campground that was right there and after driving around it a couple times chose a spot. There was a ranger sitting in his truck in the shade there (shade is at a premium) and we asked if the site was taken. He said no and he’d leave as soon as he finished his break. We tried to tell him that it was fine but we went to pay for the site and by the time we got back to it he was gone. It was an awesome campsite (picture to follow) and we had a great spot for the tent under the trees. It was HOT there, so any shade was much appreciated.

First item of business, phone calls. Our cells had no reception so we opted for pay phones. No wonder they’re almost extinct, it costs $1 for 4 minutes!!! We called Josh and sang happy birthday. It was nice to talk to him, though briefly and exciting that we’ll be seeing him in a couple weeks! And he’ll be 21 so we can go out for a drink. Second phone call to Nonna and Grandpa. We called to say hi and wish Nonna luck. It was also great talking to them (also briefly) and because we’re writing on a time delay we’ll see them tomorrow!!!

We took out our map and decided on a route that looked cool and included a ghost town. On our way, however, we were thwarted by a newly tarred road. We were worried about getting tar all over the rental car, so we tried another route which was also newly tarred. Twice thwarted we decided to go to salt creek instead.

We took the turnoff to salt creek and there was a minivan stopped a little ways down in the middle of the road. We drove up hoping they’d move. As we were driving towards them, though, everyone got out and started looking at things. Dan asked what they had found and they informed us it was something very interesting. We got out of our car as well and it was really cool. There were lots of very small plants lining the roadway and on each plant there was at least one large stripey caterpillar. He said that they got together like this once a year to breed but I think he was just saying that. It looked like they were all eating and trying to get some shade. They kept crawling towards us and our car. One came towards me and I lifted up my shoe and he just sat in the shadow underneath it. Needless to say I took a lot of pictures, some are really great (if I do say so myself!)

Now for salt creek. This was a ¼ mile boardwalk along a very salty creek teeming with pupfish. This is their breeding time so we got to see them swimming around and some of the lucky guys in action. We also saw some lizards and some bitey flies which preferred me to Dan to my annoyance.

Next stop we drove down to Badwater, which is the lowest elevation in North America. It is a large salt flat that you can walk out to. Dan had the idea to take our flip flops (thongs) off to walk out to it. It was pretty nice. The ground was cool because it was all white with salt, and a little bit wet, therefore slippery. We almost went down a couple times. Again, it was HOT so we walked a ways out but then had to turn around. When they get a lot of rain this area fills up with water.

Heading back towards our campsite we stopped at the natural bridge. Another ¼ mile walk up (and ¼ mile back). It was pretty amazing. We walked up a short hill into a canyon which provided shade (very nice). After a couple twists and turns the bridge came into site. It was enormous, and looked even more enormous with someone standing underneath it. There were interesting rock formations around it as well. One place off to the side of the bridge looked like it would have been interesting to climb up to and look around, but unfortunately we didn’t have the right clothing or footwear on for that.

Last stop before heading back to the campground was the Artist’s Drive. A 9 mile (paved) scenic loop. This was pretty amazing and I would highly recommend it. First of all the scenery is hills and mountains all with interesting textures and shapes caused by erosion. The most impressive part, though, was the colors. There were some hills at the beginning which showed some unusual pinks and greens. As we drove on we came to the Artist’s palette. This doesn’t show up half as well on film (as most things, sadly) but was amazing. It really looks like someone took a paintbrush or can of paint and tossed it over the rocks. The drive from there wound in and around the hills with numerous dips which Dan drove in a fun way.

We bough beer and ice creams at the general store. Ate our ice creams on a rocking chair, then went back to the campsite to have our beers and dinner. Dinner was going to be cooked, but we didn’t feel like it and weren’t all that hungry so it was chips, salami, cheese and bread for some. And beer. Nutritious!

That evening was spent sitting in our shade on the little chairs, with Dan constantly having to fix his as it exists by being propped up with rocks. Another order of business, hopefully for Herlong, fix that chair. As it got dark the wind picked up but it didn’t really cool down. By bedtime the wind was howling outside but our tent was protected so we didn’t even get the breeze. We went to the water a couple times to wet our heads hoping that that would help. It was a very restless night sleep, I think we really only fell asleep towards morning. At least it made us get up early (Dan wouldn’t tell me what time it was) and get a good start on the day. Next stop, somewhere on the California coast…